Day 66: September 2 Argentia to St John's NF  94 miles (151 km)    Climbing (meters): 1608 up, 1599 down
Picture (upper right): Robert, Alan, Jules, Karl, and Jon at the eastern end of the Trans Canada Highway
Picture (lower left): Jon and Karl at the top of Signal Hill


Around 5:00 a.m. I was awakened by a loud metal on metal sound.  I heard later it was some of the terminal staff getting started for the day; the ferry was scheduled to leave again at 8:00 a.m.  I tried to fall back asleep but the excitement of the day (and the lights being turned on) made it impossible.

It was pretty easy to pack up and get ready since I didn't have a tent.  I also hadn't had time to get much out last night.  Breakfast was pancakes at the truck, right outside the terminal.  Again, Bud, Margot and the drivers did the cooking.  I ate watching the sunrise over the hills.

I left with Alan and Jules.  John and Karin caught up to us before we reached the highway.  The first stop was the "Welcome to Newfoundland and Labrador" sign.  All of us pulled out our cameras.  I realized I'd be using mine frequently today so I put it in my shirt pocket instead of back in the pack.  (I ended up taking over 40 pictures on the ferry and in St. John's, take a look in the photo gallery - beginning around page 46.)

We headed off into a pleasant day.  The sun was shining.  It was cool but not cold and we had a brisk northwesterly wind.  The route to St. John's was primarily east and a little north.  That meant we'd get a tailwind most of the day with a crosswind at times.

A few kilometers from the terminal we guessed wrong at a "Y" intersection.  Neither of the towns on the sign were on our route maps and both directions were marked Highway 100 (shades of the Gaspe Peninsula.  I guess it's a Canadian thing, not just a New Brunswick peculiarity).  We only went a couple of miles before we realized the error and turned around.  We stopped at a store to buy a map on the way back.  The extra distance didn't bother us, but the return trip was uphill into a headwind.  We were lucky with the wind direction today.

I realized at the end of the day I'd been riding on adrenaline.   Having a day of rest on the ferry didn't hurt either.  We climbed 1,600 meters and rode 94 miles (151 km) and I felt fresh all day.  Most of the ride was fast, too.  Our average dropped when we hit town and slowed down.

The group split up after 30 miles (50 km).  I rode with John and Karin for a while then went ahead with Alan and Jules, Jon and Robert.  

There were a lot of bikers on the road.  At the turn onto the Trans Canada Highway we passed a restaurant with at least 25 bikes out front.  It was second breakfast time for them.

Traffic was light.  The road was good.  The shoulder was wide.  We decided to stay on the Trans Canada, ignoring the official route.  Although we missed the small towns, we saw the same landscape.  Below hilltop level there were lots of short pine trees.  You could tell from the way the trees leaned that the prevailing winds came out of the northeast.  On the tops of the bigger hills the windward sides were rock and scrub.  It must be a harsh place to live in the winter.

Just after noon we arrived at the designated meeting place -- a Tim Horton's, of course -- 6 miles (10 km) from Signal Hill.  The plan was for riders meet there at 4:00 p.m. and ride into town and up the hill together.  We decided not to wait, so after a light lunch and a donut or two we set off for the city.

The Mile/Kilometer "0" sign, marking the eastern end of the Trans Canada Highway, was next to City Hall.  Even though we didn't take the highway the entire distance it was significant.  Out came the cameras.  Neighbors of one of the riders came up to welcome us.  We pressed them into service as photographers.

The next stop was the harbor to dip our front wheels in the Atlantic.  We found a small park with a dock where we could reach the water without too much trouble.  There were no beaches.  This was a commercial port.  Looking up we could see Cabot Tower at the top of Signal Hill.  It didn't look so bad, not after all the hills and mountains we'd climbed over the past two months.  Off we went.

We discussed waiting at the hotel, half-way up the hill, for the rest of the group to arrive before going to the top.  We settled on riding to the top then doing it again when the others arrived.

This was it.  The last hill.  The last kilometer.  Jon and I took the lead and started climbing.  The first bit up to the hotel was an 11% grade.  I was breathing hard but didn't feel any pain.  Jon asked if we were dropping our packs at the hotel as we'd discussed.  I said no.  I couldn't stop here.  Half-way up we passed Brook and Jen who were walking up.  They cheered us on.  Two thirds of the way up I heard yelling from the top.  "Bikers up"  (a warning that means bikers are approaching from the front).  It was John and Karin, waving and yelling from the top.  I felt high before, but this put me over the top.  The last two inclines were almost a sprint.

I made it.  What an emotional moment.  I hugged everyone in sight.  It's hard to believe it's over.  7,539 kilometers.  4,674 miles.

When the fog started to lift I realized that Jules, Alan, and Robert hadn't ridden up with Jon and me.  They'd stopped to drop their packs.  A few minutes later Karin yelled "bikers up" again.  We all started cheering them on. (I was hoarse for the rest of the day.)  They started pedaling faster.  Their grins were huge as they crested the hill.  It was hug time again.

Picture: Robert, Jules, Karl, Brook, Alan, Jon, Karin, and John.  Finished.

The first person to congratulate Alan at the top was his wife, Celia.  She'd surprised him and flown out to be there when he arrived.  She knew him well enough that she didn't wait until 4:00 or 5:00 when the group was scheduled to arrive.

The high lasted a long time.  I didn't want to ride back down.  It would mean the the ride was over.  Eventually, we had to.

It was easier getting to the hotel from this side (downhill).  I checked into my room and then went to retrieve my baskets.  I wondered if they'd let me set up my tent outside and still have housekeeping give me fresh towels and clean up the tent every day.  

None of us disappeared into our rooms for long.  I think we were too excited.  Around 4:00 p.m. Alan, Jules and I got our bikes and went back outside to wait for the others.  We rode a short way up the hill to where Alan had seen wild blueberries growing.  It was a great snack.  Jules and I noticed that the hill seemed tougher to climb this time.

The riders came up in a big wave.  We cheered.  As we saw the riders in our group we called out their names and cheered them on.  I recognized the looks on their faces -- smiles and exhilaration, or in some cases exhaustion.  I rode up to the top next to Sue.

It was a zoo at the top.  There were hugs, cheers, tears, and cameras.  Neri received the loudest cheers when he arrived.  We'd done it.  All 23 riders who started on June 29 finished the ride.  What a great group.
 

The next few days
Most of us stayed at the Battery Hotel for a few days after the ride.  There was a formal brunch on Sunday morning where Bud said a few words and congratulated us.  Brook presented us with certificates.  The 74-day group, Jen's group, sang a song they'd written (at the bottom of this page).

We continued to meet for breakfasts and dinners.  The group slowly dwindled.  The goodbyes started immediately.  John and Karin left before the brunch.  Brook left right after.  We still had 26 for dinner Sunday evening.  Spouses and friends added to our numbers.

On Sunday some of us did a little sightseeing in town.  It was my last chance to buy presents for the folks back home.  All of the stores were going to be closed on Monday, Labor Day.  A few of the others took a boat tour to see puffins nesting on an island nearby.  Big Bruce said the birds provided only part of the entertainment.  The rest was watching everyone get seasick.

On Monday I had that itch.  I had to get back on my bike.  I rode out to Cape Spear, the easternmost point of North America.  It was only 11 miles (18 km) away but it had some good hills.  Carol, Craig, Jeff, Isabelle, and Keith drove out so we toured the grounds and the lighthouses together.  The weather report was wrong, the day was beautiful.

We spent most of our time together reminiscing.  The goodbyes were tough.  Eric commented that it would have been easier to be one of the first to leave.

I left early Tuesday, at the same time as Herb, Catherine, Neri, and Robert.  Catherine gives the best bear hugs.  The four of them were returning to North Sydney on the ferry.  I went to the airport.  I don't know what I'll do first when I get back.  Some of us had talked about it.  What's important to us now?  Are we changed?

It was a summer to remember!

Final Stats
Total Distance:  4,674 miles / 7,539 kilometers
Total time on the bike:  269 hours 48 minutes  (approximately 11 days, 6 hours)
Average speed:  17.3 mph / 27.9 kph
Average distance/day:  83 miles / 135 kilometers

onward >>  Epilogue

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